Destination : St. Anthony Part Two

By: Sharon Martin

Caribou near Anchor Point. Photo: Paul Martin

Heading north towards our destination St. Anthony, we had mixed emotions of the low grey cloud cover. The main purpose of our trip was snowmobiling and low clouds meant snow, but traveling on through this windswept tuckamore landscape in snowy weather was not for the faint of heart!

We were soon relieved however when the clearing skies revealed a landscape that was haunting and breathtaking at the same time. For the next several hours we made our way up north with the wild ocean to our left and a low lying ridge of frozen tuckamore to our right. Sheets of thick crumpled ice clung to the rocks and rock ledges as the sea washed to shore. With very little traffic, the murky colored water and the slightly snow covered highway provided a scene of pure isolation except for a scattered cluster of fishing rooms frozen into the shoreline. Just as quickly as the skies cleared they closed in again and a thick low blanket loomed overhead. The sighting of several caribou and moose caused once again to grab our camera gear quickly to get that award winning shot.

The last hour of our journey was highlighted by intense frequent snow squalls and an hour from St Anthony we were pleasantly surprised with the huge amount of snow that lined the highway, perfect snowmobile conditions. Tired and caffeine deprived after our five hour journey a mirage appeared before us!. A familiar sign boasting fresh coffee in their signature cup appeared out of nowhere. No, it couldn't be....Tim Horton's this far north! It was not a mirage. Of all the Tim Horton coffee shops throughout Newfoundland and Labrador St. Anthony's Tim Horton's have the friendliest staff and the best tasting coffee!

Receiving a warm welcome from our hosts we quickly prepared for a snowmobile ride on one of the many groomed trails in St. Anthony. The wide impeccably groomed trails bordered on each side by towering birch, spruce and fir was a first for us as we had never traveled on groomed trails before. The ride was fast and smooth and the frequent signage on the trails was a welcome reminder that a newcomer to these trails would not get lost. Although we did not see any moose on these trails, the trail shoulders were well beaten down with moose tracks as the moose move about frequently under the cover of darkness.

As darkness approached our hosts turned away from the groomed trails and headed across St. Anthony harbor, through a small woods trail to a clearing containing a secluded cabin. The purr of a generator and the sweet smell of birch smoke in the air was intoxicating. After a hearty welcome we were soon sitting down to a meal of salt cod leggies, homemade bread and homemade fruit cake. What a treat! Many people who live in St Anthony own cabins not far from the town and in winter usually spend fine days there and return home after supper. A beautiful moonlight ride back to our lodgings and we retired for the night anxiously awaiting another winter adventure.

St Anthony in Winter is magical, the harbour is well sheltered and somewhat resembles St John's harbor but on a smaller scale and the next morning we took pictures of Fishing Point and made the trip to Goose Cove to photograph the northern tip of NL.

Later that day after another two hours riding groomed trails our hosts informed us we were dropping by another cabin for a mug up. At the end of a rough narrow winding trail a quaint cabin came into view and we were welcomed as “the flowers in May". A hot cup of tea and a few raison buns fueled us for our next leg of the journey out to Little Brehat (Braha) and St. Anthony Bight, birth places of our hosts .As we bid our friendly hosts in the cabin goodbye they were just preparing a pot of homemade beans and molasses for supper!

The trip to these two communities was cold and their close proximity to the ocean chilled us to the very bone. As we gazed across the now deserted settlement of Little Brehat, we could visualize the hardiness, and expertise of these people living and working in such a barren wind-swept environment. As our hosts told stories of growing up here we could almost feel the spirit of their ancestors hardy souls embracing us.

On the Way sto St. Anthony. Photo: Paul Martin

Heading on our snow machines across the windswept barrens we meandered down a slope towards St. Anthony Bight and came to a cluster of older homes. Once again the smell of burning wood promised a warm hearth and a hot cup of tea. As we entered the quaint home of our hosts' elderly neighbors the first thing you notice as you enter is the warm welcome. Even though our visit was unexpected, a pot of boiled white beans simmering in vegetables on the stove and a generous heaping of homemade breads and cookies soon filled the table. In their eighties this frail friendly couple opened their hearts and home to us and within a few short hours we felt we had known them forever.

Our trip to St Anthony was soon coming to a close. It was bitterly cold on the last day and the crunch of the snow underfoot was something we do not experience very often on the Avalon Peninsula. St. Anthony is a winter haven for tourists. Snowmobiling along the groomed trails attracts people from all over. The young people of the area have the greatest respect for the rules and regulations of the trails and the sport in general. We never once encountered a discourteous driver and with all the traffic on the trails we never once saw litter or any type of destruction or vandalism.

Ice fishing is another popular winter sport in season from February 1st to April 15th. Smelting through the harbor ice is also a popular activity. For those winter enthusiasts who would much rather enjoy winter at a slower pace, cross country skiing and snowshoeing is another option.

St. Anthony is cold in winter but with the combination of the cold weather and the warm friendly hearts of the residents, you are bound to have an unforgettable winter vacation in Newfoundland.

We left St Anthony just before daylight with a hot cup of Tim Horton's coffees and we now understand why this area along the Great Northern Peninsula is known as Moose Alley. What a memorable escort out of town...Moose trotting along the road in front of us!

Special Note! As I sit and finish this two part article, the rain sodden landscape of the Avalon Peninsula has changed into a Winter paradise with over 100 cm of freshly fallen snow!

+ Surviving Yesteryear : A Glimpse to the Past - New!
+ American Convair B-36
+ April in Newfoundland and Labrador
+ Autumn Reflections
+ Destination: St. Anthony Part One
+ Destination: St. Anthony Part Two
+ The Fighting Newfoundlander
+ Gardening in Cottage Country Part One
+ Gardening in Cottage Country Part Two
+ Gardening in Cottage Country Part Three
+ Geocaching in Cottage Country
+ Heritage Tree
+ The Jenniex House in Norris Point : A Must Visit
+ Kayak Adventure
+ Keeping a Pond
+ Lasagna Gardening in Newfoundland and Labrador
+ Memories of Pack's Harbour
+ Mummering on the Rock
+ NL's Super Food : The Wild Blueberry
+ Random Island Charter
+ Rare Birds
+ 'Tis May 24 & We Gotta Get Away...
+ The Resilient Poppy
+ There's Four in our Trio
+ Sad or Blue? Embrace Winter
+ Sandwich Bay Meets the Puffin Post
+ Setting Up Your Own Bird Cam
+ Winter Birds